Yucca garden: planting and care. How to care for the flower “man’s tears” (hatiora), and is it true that the plant leads to discord in the family? Where should it be placed in the house?

Kira
What is the correct name for the flower of male happiness?

The flower of male happiness has different names: flamingo, fiery tongue and even sodomy. Its botanical name is . In its homeland, in Colombia, it is a symbol of masculinity, the guardian of male strength and marital well-being. The history of the flower is centuries-old, and the signs and superstitions surrounding it will be interesting and convincing even for skeptics.

Birth of a legend

According to legend, the scarlet bract of the flower is the robes of a girl who preferred death to marriage with an unloved one and threw herself into the fire. The gods took pity on the unfortunate woman and turned her into a flower of wondrous beauty. And on the site of the village where the tragedy took place, a tropical forest has grown, crying with the tears of the relatives of the innocent dead. The anthurium is also crying - drops of dew appear on its bracts.

Apparently, the legend tells about the Andre anthurium, the flower of which is an even spadix with a bright red bract. In a related form of Scherzer, called "flamingo", the spadix is ​​bizarrely curved, and the color of the spathe varies from scarlet to lilac, green and almost black.

Why was the flower called men's happiness? Perhaps in honor of a woman's devoted love. Or maybe with a hint of the characteristic shape of the bracts and spadix.

Anthurium bloom

Signs and beliefs

In South America, the flower of male happiness is an ancient symbol of the well-being of newlyweds, harmony and love. In Mexico, Argentina, Uruguay it is given in wedding bouquets as a wish for happiness and prosperity to the spouses. They also bring it as a gift to support the dying family hearth. According to esotericists, the plant enhances the masculine energy of the house and the aura of the owner.

What does a flower bring male happiness to the stronger half:

1. It will help lonely people find a family home.
2. For married people – create harmony in the family.
3. Strengthens sexual energy.
4. Develops will, determination, awakens the energy of the Warrior and Provider.
5. Brings prosperity: its owner will not experience everyday difficulties.

Attention! The energy of the plant increases if the owner himself takes care of the symbol of his power.

What does it mean for a woman:

1. Anthurium should grow in marriageable girls and unmarried ladies: it attracts male energy like a magnet - along with the man himself.
2. For a married woman, this is a talisman for a happy marriage.

Advice! A donated anthurium will become a real talisman - and by a person who is happily married.

For both spouses:

• keeps devotion and love;
• protects from quarrels;
• awakens dormant feelings;
• energizes, eliminates loss of strength, expels melancholy;
• wards off troubles, the evil eye, brings good luck.
• symbol of wealth, success, financial stability.

Little superstitions

Whether true or not, the flower is surrounded by superstitions:

1. Anthurium flowering portends great joy in the home.
2. The flower cannot be taken out of the house: marital well-being will go with it.
3. If the owner of a flower offends his wife, his thing is placed near the anthurium: the good aura of the plant will guide the peace breaker in the house on the right path.
4. Young plants cannot tolerate quarrels: loud scandals can even kill them.
5. Dew on scarlet bracts calls spouses to mutual understanding: the flower cries when love leaves its home. Plants “cry” before the rain, but the superstition is worth remembering when quarreling.

And the last nuance: its pair, “female happiness” - will help to strengthen the “impact” of the plant. Acting together, this couple will certainly preserve love and warmth in the house and invite good luck and prosperity.

Signs about the Anthurium flower: video

Yucca is a plant that came to us from the southern part of North America, a very spectacular evergreen. Its appearance is somewhat reminiscent of a palm tree. It is interesting that in its homeland the plant is used for household needs; once upon a time the very first denim fabric was made from yucca fiber, and very high quality.

Yucca is a fairly large massive plant; it can grow up to 4 meters in height, so it can decorate spacious halls and rooms. An adult plant is classified as expensive, therefore, its care must be appropriate, remember this.

Proper flower care

The location must be chosen correctly. Yucca is a southern resident, so choose the south side at home, it is advisable that the sun's rays fall on the plant; if there are none, you can use lighting make artificially.

A lack of sun will only make your beauty stretch out, and the leaves will turn yellow and begin to fall off.

Temperature and air humidity: the most optimal temperature for a flower is considered to be from 18 to 25 degrees in summer, and in winter it grows well from 16 to 18 degrees.

If the temperature drops below 12, yucca may die, but it can withstand hot summers freely and can be taken out to open air.

Dry air is not scary for most species, and you don’t have to spray it. But representatives from humid regions must be sprayed regularly, to avoid burns, make sure that the sun does not fall on wet leaves.

Watering: yucca tolerates drought very well, so in summer watering once a week will be optimal, but in winter you don’t need to water it within 10 days, but no more than this period.

Proper watering is as follows: first you need to check how well the earthen ball has dried. The dried layer should be approximately 5 cm. Water must be settled, better filtered.

For sufficient watering, use the calculation based on 5 liters of soil – 1.25 liters of water.

Bloom. Yucca in bloom is a simply stunning sight. The inflorescence is in the form of a dense panicle, up to 2.5 meters in length, in which there is a large content of flowers, resembling bells, white, pink, beige.

But unfortunately, it is almost impossible to admire such beauty at home.

Feeding yucca

To do this, you can use the simplest mineral fertilizer for house plants, as well as a solution of organic fertilizer once every 3 weeks. Can be used granular fertilizers. Once a year in the spring is enough.

With the foliar method, the solution is applied to wet leaves on both sides. In winter they do not fertilize.

The size of the pot should be 3 cm larger than the root system, with holes in the bottom, preferably clay. Place expanded clay or fine crushed clay on the bottom Red brick.

Make a mixture for planting from equal parts of leaves, humus, sand and turf soil with adding gravel or a substitute.

If the roots completely fill the pot, this is a signal to replant. Young yucca is better replant annually, then it is enough to replant once every 3 years, and amateurs can replant 2 times a year.

Yucca reproduces very easily with proper care. There are 3 main methods. The first is sowing with seeds: sowing is done in light soil, then the container is covered with glass or film, ventilated every day so that moisture does not form, for a month shoots will appear, and when they are slightly stronger, they are transplanted into separate pots.

The second method is with lateral shoots, which are separated from adult plants. In order for the babies to take root, they are placed in sand, always wet, or simply in glass of water, but preferably clean.

The last propagation method is cuttings. The top of the plant is best suited for this. about 10 cm long.

Be sure to treat the cut with ash or activated carbon and dry it for half a day. Remove leaves, leaving only 1-2. Plant the cutting in moist soil. To keep it moist spray constantly.

If you use the middle part of the stem, place it horizontally in the ground and lightly press it down. After some time, the dormant growth points will begin to sprout. Afterwards the cuttings are cut into separate shoots.

Brown spotting on leaf blades is a fungal disease. Appears mainly with high humidity or overwatering.

If detected, damaged leaves are removed, and the plant is watered less frequently than usual; spraying will also have to be abandoned once and for all for some time.

Plant stem rotting– is also a sign of a fungal disease. The fungus develops along the entire length of the stem with lightning-fast growth rates.

The disease occurs when yucca is kept in a room that is poorly or not at all ventilated. If a small part is affected, it should be delete faster, but if the flower spreads widely, unfortunately, it can no longer be saved.

Spider mite– the insect is very small and inconspicuous, translucent in color. Signs of its presence on plants are whitish spots on leaf surfaces.

Subsequently, the leaves wither and fall off. The mite infects leaves in excessively dry air. It is necessary to spray with chemicals - Aktellikom, Derris or Fufan.

False shield- a winged insect, on a body with a waxy shield. When it affects the plant, the leaves change color, dry out, fall off, and the growth of the flower slows down. In order to get rid of the pest, take a sponge and soak it in the Aktelik preparation, wipe the leaves thoroughly, and then spray the plant.

Try growing yucca, and you will have a warm corner of the south at home, even harsh winter.

Often in flower descriptions you can find the phrase that hatiora is a succulent. Don't be alarmed, this term only means that this type of plant has the ability to accumulate moisture in its tissues. Because they “live” in dry places and are forced to save water. Succulents do not have leaves as such; most often they are modified into spines (in Hatiora they are small and soft). Actually, cacti are typical succulents. Hatiora is also a cactus, although its appearance is more reminiscent of coral, for which it is often called the “dancing bones cactus.” And it grows not in deserts, but in tropical forests. The homeland of hatiora is Brazil, and from there the flower “migrated” to South America and Africa.

Hathiora is an evergreen perennial plant. The appearance of the “domestic” hatiora can be described as follows: a low shrub (up to 0.5 m in height, and in nature – up to 1 m) with jointed stems, at the top of which flowers bloom. The inflorescences themselves are shaped like a bell. The length and diameter of the stem segments vary depending on the species, as do the color and size of the flowers. In the table you can see the characteristics of different types of hatiora.

Table - Characteristics of hatiora species

There is also a very unusual type of hatiora - Five-Winged (Hatiora pentaptera). Its stems are short, and its segments are ribbed, looking like the intersection of four or five different planes. And the inflorescences of the five-winged hatiora are located not at the top of the stem, but directly on it, at the junction of the stem segments. The flowers themselves are small and white.

There is also a hybrid variety - Hatiora graeseri. This is the “child” of pink hatiora and Gartner hatiora. The shape of the stem segments is something between the shapes of the segments of the parent species, but the inflorescences were surprising - they are colored bright scarlet and dark, even dark burgundy.

Hatiora care: what to consider

In nature, hatiora grows in “Spartan” conditions, and therefore does not require special attention in a city apartment. As a typical succulent, hatiora does not require frequent and abundant watering, and as a tropical “resident” it easily tolerates daily temperature changes. But, knowing how to care for hatiora during the flowering period and at rest, you can achieve faster plant growth and more buds.

Where to place the pot

Surprisingly for a tropical inhabitant, the hatiora does not tolerate direct sunlight. But it requires a lot of diffused light. If there is insufficient light, the flower stops growing and cannot bloom. Therefore, choose a place for the pot that is fairly well lit, but at the same time, closed from direct rays. The best option: a window sill on the west or east side of the house. In the warm season, a shaded corner on the balcony is also suitable. But on southern windows, a hatiora can even get sunburned and then the plant will begin to turn yellow and wither.

If you still decide to place the pot in the south, then do not forget to cover the hatiora from direct sunlight with a piece of fabric or the same curtain. Or place the pot in the back of the room at some distance from the window.

How to water and spray

All cacti can survive a long period of waterlessness, but then they have to save moisture extremely. To do this, the plant sheds a certain number of segments, and the remaining ones noticeably wrinkle. In addition, the hatiora stops growing and does not set buds. Hatiora grows and blooms profusely only with sufficient and regular “drinking”.

In the active phase, which falls during the warm season, the hatiora needs to be watered often, but not abundantly. The soil should not be allowed to dry out - it should always be slightly moist. If there is excess moisture, the roots begin to rot, the plant withers and sheds some of the segments. To avoid this, be sure to drain the liquid from the pan 30 minutes after watering. Hatiore tap water will not work; it is advisable to water it with warm boiled water. Or you can simply let the tap water settle or clean it with any household filter.

During the dormant period (approximately from the end of September to December), the plant needs to be watered once a month. And after rest - more often, but not abundantly. Closer to spring, hatiora produces buds and around April begins to bloom and, accordingly, enters the active period. Then you need to water without allowing the soil to dry out.

During the active period, hatiora should be sprayed frequently, especially in hot weather. In summer it is recommended to do this every day. During the dormant period, spraying is not required at all.

Temperature

In summer, the most favorable conditions for hatiora are when the daytime temperature ranges from 20-27 °C and drops by 6-8 °C at night. The plant also loves fresh air, so in the warm season it is better to place the hatoiru on the balcony or place it outside, in the shade of trees. If the pot is on the windowsill, ventilate the room more often.

In winter, the hatiora rests. During this period, you need to move the flowerpot to a cool place. The optimal temperature is 10-16 °C. It is in the cool that the buds are laid. If the hatiore is not provided with the necessary regime during the dormant period, then, most likely, flowering in the spring will be sparse.

When and what to feed

In nature, this cactus receives enough nutrients from the soil, because it is constantly renewed naturally. Growing hatiora in a pot at home requires periodic feeding.

During the active period, it is recommended to apply fertilizers twice a month. During the rest period there is no need to do this at all. Hatiora can be fed with potassium or phosphorus mixtures. Nitrogen fertilizers are not suitable - they will rot the roots. There are even specialized commercial formulations for cacti and succulents. According to gardeners, it is better to dilute the composition by half the recommended dose, this eliminates the risk of overfeeding the plant.

How to replant

The most rapid growth occurs in the first three years of the plant's life. During this period of time, you need to replant the cactus annually, otherwise the hatiore will become crowded and it will stop blooming. Starting from three years, the growth rate slows down and now you can replant less frequently - once every two years. Massive mature plants do not require a change of “home” more often than once every five years. This is done in the spring, as soon as the flowering period ends. Replanting a Hatiora is easy. Follow the five step instructions.

1. Prepare the soil mixture. The composition is as follows: coarse sand, leaf soil, peat and turf soil - in equal proportions. Hatiora loves loose, oxygenated soil, so it would be a good idea to mix some charcoal into the soil.
2. Pick a pot. Hatiora's root system is superficial, so there is no point in a deep pot. It is better to choose a low and wide container. Ideal is when there is a space of 1-2 cm left from the roots to the walls of the pot.
3. Don't forget about drainage. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the pot, this will prevent rotting of the roots.
4. Clean the roots. You need to remove old soil from the roots.
5. Compact. Place a layer of soil on the drainage, install the plant and cover with a second layer of soil. The soil on top needs to be compacted a little to provide the bush with greater stability. It is also recommended to tie the stems.

Now is the time to water the cactus. There is no point in immediately applying fertilizers, because the soil is still “fresh” and contains a sufficient amount of minerals. Don't forget to drain the excess water from the pan after half an hour.

Plant propagation

The easiest and fastest way to propagate hatiora is vegetatively. That is, cuttings. The best time for this is spring, immediately after flowering ends. It is necessary to “unscrew” (not cut) a cutting consisting of at least three segments from the mother plant. And then you can use one of the following methods.

Rooting in water...

A freshly broken section of the stem is placed in a glass of clean, warm water. Soon the plant will sprout roots. And when their length reaches 2 cm, you can plant the sprout in a low pot with soil. The soil should be moist, but not wet. After the soil has dried, you can water the plant, but not from above, but through the pan.

This method is convenient when you need to root several cuttings at once. They can be placed together in one glass of water, and only then, when the roots grow, each one can be planted in its own pot.

...or directly in the ground

This method is close to how hatiora reproduces in nature. But even here there are two options for preparing cuttings.

1. The bottom edge is sprinkled with ash. And they forget about it for a couple of days. Then the bottom is sprinkled with a composition for the rapid growth of roots such as “Kornevin” and planted in moist soil. Further care comes down to periodically moistening the soil.
2. The cuttings are not treated with anything. And leave it to dry on its own for a week. During this time, the segments should wrinkle a little. Then the cutting is simply “stuck” into a pot with moist soil. When the shoot takes root, the plant will again be saturated with moisture and the segments will begin to straighten out. This is a sure sign that hatoira has taken root.

In both cases, by next spring there will already be small hatiora bushes in the pots. By the way, such a sprout can be a good gift for a loved one or colleague. Just don’t forget to describe to him all the features of caring for a hatiora, especially since there are very few of them.

Health issues

Like any other “house” plant, hatiora can get sick. Misfortunes can be associated with improper care, infection, or “invasion” of insects. Next, we will analyze each case in more detail.

Diseases

Hatiora diseases can be bacterial or fungal in nature. It is important not to make a mistake with the “diagnosis”. The table discusses the causes, symptoms and methods of treating the plant for various diseases.

Table - Hatiora diseases

The use of fungicides makes sense at the initial stage of a fungal infection. In this case, it is necessary to remove all affected stems, otherwise they will infect healthy “neighbors”. If the fungus has infected most of the flower, then the hatiora cannot be saved - it is better to get rid of the plant as a source of infection for other green “pets”.

Pests

Table - Hatiora pests

The use of chemicals is justified at the initial stage of infection. If most of the flower is affected, then, unfortunately, it cannot be saved. It is better to destroy the cactus along with the soil and pot.

Important: no matter what drug you decide to use, be sure to wear a respirator and rubber gloves. Also, ventilate the room well after treatment. Any chemical composition is an allergen, so it won’t hurt to “keep ready” any antihistamine.

Other problems

1. Hathiora does not bloom. Or it blooms, but very modestly. This happens if the plant was not allowed to “rest”, that is, the temperature regime was not observed during the dormant period. The flower may not have enough nutrition, then you need to start fertilizing on a schedule. Another reason is insufficient watering, that is, periodic drying of the soil was allowed (in the active phase, the top layer of soil should always be slightly moist). Or maybe the hatiore is cramped and needs to be transplanted into a larger pot.
2. Cactus sheds inflorescences and segments. There may also be several reasons: non-compliance with watering rules, violation of temperature conditions, drafts. Care depends on the phase the plant is in and needs to be adjusted.
3. Stem segments shrink. The cactus lacks moisture. Watering needs to be increased. If the soil is moist when the segments are wrinkled, it means that the temperature regime is disturbed or a draft is blowing on the plant.
4. The stems turn yellow. If no symptoms of flower damage by infections or pests are detected, then, most likely, too much watering is to blame.

Superstitions and signs

Do you believe in all sorts of folk signs and superstitions? It turns out that Hatiora was not spared from people’s fears either. And here are some of them.

• Homewrecker. Hatiora “splits” families, brings disputes and discord into the home.
• Man-hater. Hatiora “survives” men, drives them into depression, and encourages them to abuse alcohol.
• Poisonous and dangerous. Some varieties of hatiora are poisonous and dangerous to children and pets.

No one has yet provided any substantiated confirmation of these superstitions, although no one has ever conducted authoritative research on this topic. And, by the way, hatiora does not appear among the currently known poisonous plants. Do you think such rumors should be trusted?

Be that as it may, knowing how to care for hatiora and following these rules, you can grow an entire tropical garden in a city apartment. And as a reward, it will delight the eye with vigorous flowering at the dullest time of the year, when the rest of the flowers are still in “hibernation.”

Anthurium lives naturally in South and Central America. There it is known as “fire tongue”, the second name of the plant is “flamingo flower”. We call this flower “male happiness” - people believe that if you take good care of it, happiness will come to your home. It blooms, forming a bright red heart, but there are varieties with other colors.

The plant has an extraordinary appearance. Thanks to its inflorescences-cobs and a smooth shiny surface, it has an external gloss and stands as if covered with wax.

Types and varieties

The dark green leaves of the plant are leathery and can have different shapes: heart, elongated, broadly lanceolate, whole, dissected. The main decoration of anthurium lies in the exotic inflorescence, which can be, depending on the type, from snow-white to dark red shades, there are also black ones.

There are about 800 types of crops, but only a small part of them are bred at home. The most famous are:

• Anthurium Andre,
• Crystal,
• Scherzer.

Conventionally, all plant varieties are divided into three types:

• Beautifully flowering.
• Green-leaved.
• Variegated.

Most varieties can only grow in greenhouse conditions; they are difficult to grow in apartments.

Andre is an epiphyte, reaches a length of one meter, its leaves are large and its roots are aerial. The peduncle is about 15 cm, the glossy heart-shaped spathe with a metallic sheen grows up to 20 cm.

Scherzera is a more common species among gardeners. Smaller in size than the previous one, stem up to 40 cm high. The leaves are matte, leathery, dark green in color and covered with dots on both sides. The peduncle reaches 30 cm, the spathe is orange-red, and the spadix is ​​orange or yellow.

Variegated varieties are represented by the most recognizable: crystal and majestic. They are similar to each other. Low-growing, large leaves are dark green, velvety with white veins. The difference is in the cross-section of the leaf petiole: the majestic one is tetrahedral, while the crystal one is round.

Climbing, Hooker, Baker, five-leaf and some others are also used for landscaping.

Anthurium flower: care at home

In order for the plant to be comfortable, basic conditions must be observed, such as humidity, heat and light. If you bring its existence closer to natural, then the flower will delight you with the splendor of green foliage and long-lasting flowering from early spring until autumn.

Rules for watering and fertilizing

Anthurium is a tropical plant, so it needs abundant but infrequent watering. In summer, it is watered without stagnation of moisture in the pan once every 3-4 days. If the water stagnates, this can lead to mold and mildew, which will damage the root system.

Caring for anthurium at home should be accompanied by applying fertilizers during the growth period. It should be fed with mineral and organic fertilizers once every two weeks. The water used must be soft.

During the dormant period, that is, in winter, watering is sharply reduced. Water only once a week, but continue to moisturize with frequent spraying, use warm showers and use humidifiers. It is recommended to wipe the leaves with a soft damp sponge to remove dust and provide additional moisture. Male happiness - anthurium does not like dry soil.

Air temperature

All tropical plants, including this flower, prefer warm conditions. Is comfortable temperature from 20 to 25 degrees during the growing season and not lower than 18 in winter.

Remember that this male flower will not withstand drafts. It is better to place it in a secluded place where there are no circulating air masses, but fresh air is still available.

Lighting

Properly organized plant lighting is the key to successful care. The best option would be diffused sunlight. Direct exposure to sunlight can damage the leaves of a delicate flower and ruin its appearance.

In order for a tropical guest to live well in the summer, it can be placed on eastern or western window sills. In winter, move the plant to the south side of the room.

If the sun is active, then place the pot with the plant at a distance of one meter from the window. This is how you protect him from the negative effects of direct rays.

The plant stops growing and does not bloom if it does not receive enough light. The lack of light can be “read” by its leaves; they become deformed. The flower should be cared for in another, more suitable place.

In the spring, the anthurium is transplanted into a wide, low container with a good drainage system. The flowerpot is selected according to the plant and should not be too large, otherwise it will negatively affect the flowering of the plant. Care must be taken during transplantation as it can easily be damaged. fragile leaves and roots.

When covering with soil, make sure that the rosette of leaves remains visible and the roots are well covered. If roots become visible as the plant grows, they should be covered with damp moss. And in the future, to prevent the roots from drying out, it must be kept constantly moist.

Anthurium is not a fast-growing plant, so replanting should be done every 1-2 years. Do not rush to transplant a newly purchased plant into a new pot, because anthurium needs time to adapt to new conditions. An adult flower is replanted after three years.

If the plant is replanted more often, this can lead to the growth of the root system and leaves due to the formation of buds.

The soil

“Male Happiness” likes a composition of coarse fibrous deciduous, light turf soil and particles of bog moss as a substrate. This mixture retains moisture well and is close to the natural soil where the anthurium comes from. The root system needs air, so the substrate needs to be loose.

The flower does not accept alkali, so it should not be present either during watering or in the soil. Preferred slightly acidic soil reaction. To carry out a transplant, it is not necessary to prepare the mixture yourself; it can be purchased at a specialized store.

Reproduction

Anthurium is propagated by the following methods:

​To get seeds, pollination should be done. Using a cotton swab, periodically transfer pollen from one inflorescence-cob to another. As a result, the fruit will appear; when it is ripe, it must be removed with tweezers with extreme caution. The seeds ripen for about 8 months, after which they are removed from the fruit and washed with a weak solution of manganese.

Seeds are sown evenly on loose soil with a thin layer of perlite. Then they are pressed into the substrate with the bottom of the jar, and the container is sealed hermetically with glass or film. Shoots appear after a few weeks. When the young plant shows two leaves, it is dived into the mixture, which consists of equal proportions charcoal, leaf soil, peat and mullein. As the plant grows, it is transplanted into larger containers.

Diseases and pests: how to treat at home?

When the rules of care are violated, various troubles arise with the flower.

• Yellow leaves indicate insufficient heat in the room where the anthurium is located. The flower should be moved to warmer conditions, and the air humidity should be reduced for a short period of time.
• If a plant does not bloom, then this can be caused by three reasons. The first lies in insufficient lighting, the second in a lack of nutrients, the last in a large volume of containers.
• Yellowish or brown spots form on the leaves, which spread and cause them to fall off. The disease is called anthracnose or septoria, it spreads through a diseased plant. Anthurium is also often tormented by downy mildew. It is manifested by yellowing and curling of leaves, which decrease in size.
• Leaves may turn black as a result of inappropriate water and improper watering.
  • The plant should not be watered with hard or cold water; it must be purified or settled.
  • Water should come out freely through the holes in the bottom of the pot; half an hour after watering, it should be removed from the pan.

Other causes of blackening and curling of leaves include fungus. Gray rot occurs due to excessive humidity, it affects individual parts of the plant. Root rot is very dangerous, leading to the death of the entire plant.

Pests

In addition to fungal and viral infections, diseases can also occur as a result of pest damage. Anthurium is striking aphids, scale insects and spider mites. To avoid their appearance, the leaves of the crop should be washed with warm water. But if the plant is already infected, you should treat it with a soap solution or apply an insecticide, which are equally effective against the pest.

From all of the above we can conclude that this culture requires increased attention. However, for lovers of indoor plants, caring for it is not very difficult. A little care shown to this tropical guest and the expenditure of effort will result in great pleasure from contemplating the exotic beauty that the anthurium will reward you with.

Male happiness anthurium