How to stand up to take a beautiful photo. How to pose correctly at a photo shoot. How to learn to take beautiful photos

This article is intended primarily for those who first came to the site with the desire to learn how to take photographs. It will act as a guide to the rest of the site’s materials, which you should pay attention to if you suddenly decide to “upgrade” your photography skills.

Before learning to take photographs, you need to decide for yourself - why do I need this and how deeply am I ready to dive into it? Probably everyone has seen a similar caricature of the diagram of human evolution:

Image from the Internet

Sometimes this picture draws a line between a photographer with a mobile phone and a photographer with a tripod and the caption “some people should stop here.”

The article you are reading has existed since 2008 and every couple of years it is thoroughly edited in accordance with current trends and trends in the field of photography - amateur and professional. Over the 10 years of its existence, this article has changed its content by almost 100%! This is due to the fact that we now live in a turning point, when photography has turned from being the preserve of professionals and enthusiasts into a universal hobby. And not even a hobby, but an integral part of everyday life. You probably already guess that we are talking about mobile photography. On the one hand, this is very cool, but on the other...Photography, due to its mass appeal, ceases to be art. Every day, millions (if not billions) of the same type of photographs with flowers, cats, plates of food, selfies and other nonsense are uploaded to the Internet and, oddly enough, all this finds its viewer - “Instagram stars” gain millions of likes for blurry photos like “ me and my cat." Simply because their photos are understandable and close to the majority. Photographs of recognized masters have a much lower rating among the general public - they do not understand them. It’s about the same as comparing two types of music - pop and, say, jazz.

Let's return to the question once again - why do you want to learn photography? If you're doing it just because it's "fashionable" or "prestigious" - don't bother. This fashion will soon pass. If you really want to “rise above the hustle and bustle,” this article is for you!

A bit of boring theory

First of all, it is worth noting that photography consists of two inextricably linked parts - creative and technical.

The creative part comes from your imagination and vision of the plot. Its understanding comes with experience. This can also include photographic luck - the more experienced the photographer, the more often he is “lucky” with the subject and shooting conditions. When I started my creative journey, I looked at the works of advanced authors on photosight.ru and perceived them as some kind of magic. I recently reviewed the list of selected works and realized that there is no magic in them, just a lot of experience and a fair amount of luck :)

The technical part is a sequence of pressing buttons, selecting a mode, setting shooting parameters in order to realize a creative idea. The proportion can be different from the creative and technical side and depends only on your decision - what camera will you take pictures in, in what mode (auto or), in what format (), will you do it later or leave it as is?

Learning to take photographs means learning to combine the creative and technical parts in optimal proportions. It is not at all necessary to photograph everything in manual mode (we will leave this to the adherents of the “old school”), it is enough to know the features of your camera and be able to use them in accordance with the shooting conditions. When we see a beautiful painting, it makes absolutely no difference to us how the artist held the brush, how he mixed the paints, or how high his easel was. It's the same in photography. The main thing is the result, and how it was obtained is completely indifferent to the viewer.

What is the best camera to buy for learning photography?

If you really want to learn photography, you need a camera, not a smartphone. It is highly desirable that this camera have interchangeable lenses. Smartphones are conceptually designed for automatic shooting, even if they have some manual settings. When trying to learn to take photographs using a smartphone, you will very quickly realize that you have hit the ceiling - there are not enough photographic capabilities for further development. The creative possibilities of any camera with interchangeable lenses are practically unlimited.

To learn photography, it is not at all necessary to purchase the most modern and expensive equipment. Nowadays, amateur technology has developed so much that it satisfies the requirements of not only amateurs, but also advanced photographers.

Now about the cameras themselves (more precisely, about the “carcasses”). There is no point in chasing the latest models. They are expensive and usually do not have any great advantages over cameras of the previous model. The only thing that can encourage a reasonable person to overpay for newness is some radical updates, for example, a new generation matrix. In most other cases, innovations in photography have a very indirect relationship. For example, the number of focus sensors has increased by 5%, Wi-Fi control, a GPS sensor, and an ultra-high-resolution touch screen have been added. It makes no sense to pay 20% more for such innovations compared to the previous model. I don’t encourage you to buy “old stuff,” but I recommend taking a more sober approach to the choice between a new product and a previous generation camera. Prices for new products can be unreasonably high, while the number of truly useful innovations may not be so great.

Introducing Basic Camera Features

It is advisable to be patient and study the instructions for the camera. Unfortunately, it is not always written simply and clearly, however, this does not eliminate the need to study the location and purpose of the main controls. As a rule, there are not so many controls - a mode dial, one or two wheels for setting parameters, several function buttons, zoom controls, an autofocus and shutter button. It is also worth studying the main menu items in order to be able to configure such things as, image style. All this comes with experience, but over time there should not be a single incomprehensible item in the camera menu for you.

Getting to know the exhibition

The time has come to pick up the camera and try to depict something with it. First, turn on auto mode and try to take photographs in it. In most cases, the result will be quite normal, but sometimes the photos for some reason turn out to be too light or, conversely, too dark.

It's time to get acquainted with such a thing as. Exposure is the total light flux that the matrix captured during the shutter operation. The higher the exposure level, the brighter the photo turns out. Photos that are too light are called overexposed, and photos that are too dark are called underexposed. You can adjust the exposure level manually, but this cannot be done in auto mode. To be able to "brighten up or down" you need to go into P (programmed exposure) mode.

Programmed Exposure Mode

This is the simplest “creative” mode, which combines the simplicity of the auto mode and at the same time allows you to introduce corrections into the operation of the machine - to make photos forcibly lighter or darker. This is done using exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is usually used when the scene is dominated by either light or dark objects. The automation works in such a way that it tries to bring the average exposure level of the image to 18% gray tone (the so-called “gray card”). Please note that when we take more of the bright sky into the frame, the ground appears darker in the photo. And vice versa, we take more land into the frame - the sky brightens, sometimes even turns white. Exposure compensation helps compensate for shadows and highlights moving beyond the boundaries of absolute black and absolute white.

Even in program exposure mode, you can adjust the white balance and control the flash. This mode is convenient because it requires a minimum of technical knowledge, but at the same time it can provide much better results than full automatic mode.

What is endurance?

No matter how good and convenient it is, it, alas, does not always allow us to get the result we expected. A striking example is shooting moving objects. Try going outside and filming cars passing by. On a bright sunny day this will most likely work, but as soon as the sun goes behind a cloud, the cars will turn out slightly smeared. Moreover, the less light, the stronger this blur will be. Why does this happen?

The photo is exposed when the shutter opens. If fast moving objects get into the frame, then during the time the shutter is opened they have time to move and appear slightly blurry in the photo. The time for which the shutter opens is called endurance.

Shutter speed allows you to get the effect of “frozen motion” (example below), or, conversely, blur moving objects.

Shutter speed is displayed as a unit divided by a number, for example, 1/500 - this means that the shutter will open for 1/500 of a second. This is a fast enough shutter speed at which driving cars and walking pedestrians will be clear in the photo. The shorter the shutter speed, the more rapid movement can be frozen.

If you increase the shutter speed to, say, 1/125 of a second, pedestrians will still remain clear, but cars will be noticeably blurred. If the shutter speed is 1/50 or longer, the risk of getting blurry photos increases due to the photographer's hand shaking and it is recommended to use the camera on a tripod , or use an image stabilizer (if available).

Night photographs are taken with very long exposures of several seconds and even minutes. Here it is no longer possible to do without a tripod.

To be able to lock the shutter speed, the camera has a shutter priority mode. It is designated TV or S. In addition to a fixed shutter speed, it allows you to use exposure compensation. Shutter speed has a direct effect on the exposure level - the longer the shutter speed, the brighter the photo turns out.

What is a diaphragm?

Another mode that can be useful is aperture priority mode.

Diaphragm- this is the “pupil” of the lens, a hole of variable diameter. The narrower this diaphragm hole, the larger DOF- depth of sharply imaged space. Aperture is designated by a dimensionless number from the series 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, etc. In modern cameras you can select intermediate values, for example, 3.5, 7.1, 13, etc.

The larger the aperture number, the greater the depth of field. A large depth of field is relevant when you need everything to be sharp - both the foreground and the background. Landscapes are usually shot with an aperture of 8 or larger.

A typical example of a photograph with a large depth of field is the zone of sharpness from the grass under your feet to infinity.

The point of a small depth of field is to focus the viewer's attention on the subject and blur all background objects. This technique is commonly used in . To blur the background in a portrait, open the aperture to 2.8, 2, sometimes even 1.4. At this stage, we come to the understanding that the 18-55 mm kit lens limits our creative possibilities, since at the “portrait” focal length of 55 mm it will not be possible to open the aperture wider than 5.6 - we begin to think about a fast prime (for example, 50mm 1.4) so ​​that get a result like this:

Shallow DOF is a great way to shift the viewer's attention from the colorful background to the main subject.

To control aperture, you need to switch the control dial to aperture priority mode (AV or A). In this case, you tell the device what aperture you want to take pictures with, and it selects all the other parameters itself. Exposure compensation is also available in aperture priority mode.

The aperture has the opposite effect on the exposure level - the larger the aperture number, the darker the picture turns out (a pinched pupil lets in less light than an open one).

What is ISO sensitivity?

You've probably noticed that photos sometimes have ripples, grain, or, as it's also called, digital noise. The noise is especially pronounced in photographs taken in poor lighting. The presence/absence of ripples in photographs is determined by the following parameter: ISO sensitivity. This is the degree of sensitivity of the matrix to light. It is designated by dimensionless units - 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, etc.

When shooting at minimum sensitivity (for example, ISO 100), the image quality is the best, but you have to shoot with a longer shutter speed. In good lighting, for example, outside during the day, this is not a problem. But if we go into a room in which there is much less light, then it will no longer be possible to shoot at the minimum sensitivity - the shutter speed will be, for example, 1/5 of a second and the risk is very high " wiggles", so called because of the trembling of the hands.

Here's an example photo taken at low ISO with a long shutter speed on a tripod:

Please note that the disturbance on the river was blurred in motion and it seemed that there was no ice on the river. But there is practically no noise in the photo.

To avoid shake in low light, you need to either increase the ISO sensitivity to reduce the shutter speed to at least 1/50 of a second, or continue shooting at minimum ISO and use . When shooting on a tripod with a long shutter speed, moving objects are very blurry. This is especially noticeable when shooting at night. ISO sensitivity has a direct impact on exposure levels. The higher the ISO number, the brighter the photo will be at a fixed shutter speed and aperture.

Below is an example of a photo taken at ISO6400 late in the evening outdoors without a tripod:

Even in web size it is noticeable that the photo is quite noisy. On the other hand, grain effect is often used as an artistic technique, giving a photo a "film" look.

The relationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO

So, as you probably already guessed, the exposure level is influenced by three parameters - shutter speed, aperture and ISO sensitivity. There is such a thing as “exposure step” or EV (Exposure Value). Each next step corresponds to an exposure 2 times greater than the previous one. These three parameters are interconnected.

• if we open the aperture by 1 step, the shutter speed is reduced by 1 step
• if we open the aperture by 1 step, the sensitivity decreases by one step
• if we reduce the shutter speed by 1 step, the ISO sensitivity increases by one step

Manual mode

In manual mode, the photographer has the ability to control. This is necessary when we need to firmly fix the exposure level and prevent the camera from acting on its own. For example, darken or brighten the foreground when there is more or less sky in the frame, respectively.

Convenient when shooting in the same conditions, for example, when walking around the city in sunny weather. I adjusted it once and had the same exposure level in all photos. The inconveniences in manual mode begin when you have to move between light and dark locations. If we go, for example, into a cafe from the street and shoot there on “street” settings, the photos will turn out too dark, since there is less light in the cafe.

Manual mode is indispensable when shooting panoramas and all thanks to the same property - maintaining a constant exposure level. When using autoexposure, the exposure level will greatly depend on the amount of light and dark objects. If we caught a large dark object in the frame, we got the sky illuminated. And vice versa, if the frame is dominated by light objects, the shadows fade into blackness. Gluing up such a panorama is a pain in the ass! So, to avoid this mistake, shoot panoramas in M ​​mode, setting the exposure in advance in such a way that all fragments will be correctly exposed.

The result is that when gluing there will be no “steps” in brightness between frames, which are likely to appear when shooting in any other mode.

In general, many experienced photographers and photography teachers recommend using manual mode as the main mode. They are right about something - when you shoot in manual mode, you have complete control over the shooting process. You can choose the most correct combination of settings for a given one from hundreds of options. The main thing is to know what you are doing and why. If there is no clear understanding of the principles of operation in manual mode, you can limit yourself to semi-automatic ones - 99.9% of viewers will not notice the difference :)

In reporting conditions, manual mode is also not particularly convenient, since you need to constantly adapt to changing shooting conditions. Many people do it cunningly - in mode M they fix the shutter speed and aperture, while “releasing” the ISO. Although the mode selector is set to M, shooting is far from being done in manual mode - the camera itself selects ISO sensitivity and flash power, and can change these parameters within enormous limits.

Zoom and focal length

This is a characteristic that determines the angle of the lens's field of view. The shorter the focal length, the wider the angle the lens covers; the longer the focal length, the more similar in its effect it is to a spyglass.

Often the concept of “focal length” in everyday life is replaced by “zoom”. This is incorrect, since zoom is just a factor that changes the focal length. If the maximum focal length is divided by the minimum, we get the zoom factor.

Focal length is measured in millimeters. Nowadays, the term “equivalent focal length” is widely used; it is used for cameras with a crop factor, of which the majority are. Its purpose is to estimate the coverage angle of a specific lens/matrix combination and bring them to a full-frame equivalent. The formula is simple:

EFR = FR * Kf

FR is the actual focal length, CF (crop factor) is a coefficient showing how many times the matrix of this device is smaller than a full-frame one (36*24 mm).

Thus, the equivalent focal length of an 18-55 mm lens on a 1.5 crop would be 27-82 mm. Below is a sample list of focal length settings. I'll be writing in full frame equivalent. If you have a crop factor camera, simply divide these numbers by the crop factor to get the actual focal length you need to set on your lens.

• 24 mm or less- “wide angle”. The coverage angle allows you to capture a fairly large sector of space in the frame. This allows you to convey the depth of the frame and the distribution of plans well. 24mm is characterized by a pronounced perspective effect, which tends to distort the proportions of objects at the edges of the frame. Often it looks impressive.

It is better not to photograph group portraits at 24 mm, as people on the extreme end may end up with heads that are slightly elongated diagonally. Focal lengths of 24mm and shorter are good for landscapes with sky and water predominates.

• 35 mm- “short focus”. Also good for landscapes, as well as shooting people against the background of a landscape. The coverage angle is quite wide, but the perspective is less pronounced. At 35 mm you can shoot full-length portraits and portraits in a setting.

• 50 mm- “normal lens”. The focal length is mainly for taking pictures of people not very close-up. Single, group portrait, “street photography”. The perspective roughly corresponds to what we are used to seeing with our own eyes. You can photograph a landscape, but not every landscape - the angle of the field of view is no longer so large and does not allow you to convey depth and space.

• 85-100 mm- “portrait painter”. The 85-100mm lens is well suited for shooting waist-length and larger portraits with a predominantly vertical frame layout. The most interesting pictures can be obtained with fast lenses with a fixed focal length, for example, 85mm F:1.8. When shooting at an open aperture, the eighty-five lens blurs the background very well, thereby emphasizing the main subject. For other genres, an 85 mm lens, even if it is suitable, is a stretch. It is almost impossible to shoot landscapes with it; indoors, most of the interior is outside its field of vision.

• 135 mm- “close-up portraiture”. A focal length for close-up portraits in which the face takes up most of the frame. The so-called close-up portrait.

• 200 mm or more- “telephoto lens”. Allows you to take close-up shots of distant objects. A woodpecker on a tree trunk, a roe deer at a watering hole, a football player with a ball in the middle of the field. Not bad for taking close-up shots of small objects - for example, a flower in a flower bed. The perspective effect is practically absent. It is better not to use such lenses for portraits, as faces appear visually wider and flatter. Below is an example of a photograph taken at a focal length of 600 mm - there is virtually no perspective. Near and far objects on the same scale:

The focal (real!) distance, in addition to the scale of the image, affects the depth of field of the imaged space (together with the aperture). The longer the focal length, the smaller the depth of field, and accordingly, the background blur is stronger. This is another reason not to use a wide-angle lens for portraits if you want background blur. Here lies the answer and the question - why “” and smartphones do not blur the background in portraits well. Their actual focal length is several times shorter than that of SLR and system cameras (mirrorless).

Composition in photography

Now that we have generally understood the technical part, it's time to talk about such a thing as composition. In short, composition in photography is the relative arrangement and interaction of objects and light sources in the frame, thanks to which the photographic work looks harmonious and complete. There are quite a lot of rules, I will list the main ones, those that need to be learned first.

Light is your most important visual medium. Depending on the angle at which the light hits an object, it can look completely different. Black and white drawing is practically the only way to convey volume in a photograph. Frontal light (flash, the sun behind) hides the volume, objects look flat. If the light source is shifted slightly to the side, this is better; a play of light and shadow appears. Counter (back) light makes pictures contrasting and dramatic, but you must first learn how to work with such light.

Don't try to fit everything into the frame at the same time, photograph only the essence. When photographing something in the foreground, keep an eye on the background - there are often unwanted objects in it. Pillars, traffic lights, trash cans, and the like - all these unnecessary objects clog up the composition and distract attention, they are called “photo trash”.

Do not place the main subject in the center of the frame, move it slightly to the side. Leave more space in the frame in the direction where the main subject is “looking”. If possible, try different options and choose the best one.

“Zoom in” and “come closer” are not the same thing. Zoom increases the focal length of the lens, as a result of which the background is stretched and blurred - this is good for a portrait (within reasonable limits).

We take the portrait from the model’s eye level from a distance of at least 2 meters. Lack of scale by increasing the focal length (zoom zoom). If we photograph children, we don’t need to do it from our own height; we’ll get a portrait against the background of the floor, asphalt, or grass. Sit down!

Try not to take a portrait from a frontal angle (like a passport). Turning the model's face towards the main light source is always beneficial. You can try other angles. The main thing is light!

Make the most of natural light - it's more artistic and lively than flash lighting. Remember that a window is an excellent source of soft diffused lighting, almost a softbox. Using curtains and tulle, you can change the intensity of light and its softness. The closer the model is to the window, the more contrasting the lighting.

When shooting “in a crowd”, a high shooting point, when the camera is held on arms outstretched, is almost always advantageous. Some photographers even use a stepladder.

Try not to let the horizon line cut the frame into two equal halves. If there is more interest in the foreground, place the horizon at a level of approximately 2/3 from the bottom edge (ground - 2/3, sky - 1/3), if in the background - accordingly, at a level of 1/3 (ground - 1/3, sky - 2/3). This is also called the “rule of thirds.” If you can’t attach key objects to the “thirds”, place them symmetrically to each other relative to the center:

To process or not to process?

For many, this is a sore point - whether a photograph processed in Photoshop is considered “live” and “real”. In this opinion, people are divided into two camps - some are categorically against processing, others - for the fact that there is nothing wrong with processing photographs. My personal opinion about processing is this:

• Any photographer should have at least basic photo processing skills - correct the horizon, frame, cover up a speck of dust on the matrix, adjust the exposure level, white balance.
• Learn to take photographs in such a way that you don’t need to edit them later. This saves a lot of time!
• If the picture initially turned out well, think a hundred times before “improving” it somehow programmatically.
• Converting a photo to black and white, toning, graining, and using filters does not automatically make it artistic, but there is a chance of it slipping into bad taste.
• When processing a photo, you must know what you want to get. There is no need to do processing for the sake of processing.
• Explore the capabilities of the programs you use. There are probably functions that you don’t know about that will allow you to achieve results faster and better.
• Don't get carried away with color correction without a high-quality calibrated monitor. Just because an image looks good on your laptop screen doesn't mean it will look good on other screens or when printed.
• The edited photograph must be left to rest. Before publishing it and sending it to print, leave it for a couple of days, and then look at it with fresh eyes - it is quite possible that you will want to change a lot.

Conclusion

I hope you understand that you won’t be able to learn photography by reading one article. Yes, I, in fact, did not set such a goal - to “lay out” everything that I know in it. The purpose of the article is to briefly talk about the simple truths of photography, without going into subtleties and details, but simply to lift the veil. I tried to write in a concise and accessible language, but even so, the article turned out to be quite lengthy - and this is just the tip of the iceberg!

If you are interested in a deeper study of the topic, I can offer paid materials on photography. They are presented as e-books in PDF format. You can view their list and trial versions here -.

A successful and beautiful photo is possible. Read the tips in the article that will help you take interesting pictures.

With the advent of digital technology in the modern world, life has become easier. For example, you can take a thousand pictures, and choose one or even several of them - the most beautiful and original.

• Even so, many people have trouble taking good photographs.
• How to stand up correctly, what is the best way to smile, what is the best facial expression?
• This is especially important if you are going to a paid photo shoot with a friend or loved one, where almost every shot must be successful.
• Read the article on how to look good in photos. We'll figure out why you look bad in photos, how you can fix it, and what pose to choose for the photo.

It seems so simple: you just need to take a relaxed and natural pose and a beautiful photo is ready. But at the same time it is so difficult - where to put your hands, how to tilt your head, how to emphasize your individuality? Here are some simple rules and tips on how to look good in photographs:

Don't wring your wrists, otherwise your hands will look strange in the photo. Also no need to squeeze your waist. Unsightly folds of clothing will ruin a photo of a person even with the prettiest face. Place your hands loosely at your waist, relax and don't think about them.

Elbows should not face the camera. This pose will look ridiculous. You don’t need to put too much pressure on your cheek, supporting it with your hand - it will give the impression that you have a toothache. Just touch your face with your hands - this will be enough for a beautiful photo.

You don't need to pay much attention to your eyes. Very bulging or, conversely, narrowed eyes will look ugly in the photo. Just look into the camera or into the distance if the lens bothers you.

Do not cover your face, chest or torso with your hands. Such a photograph turns out to be ugly, and the question involuntarily arises: “Does something hurt her?” Be open, and hands that barely touch your face will add a little shyness.

During a photo shoot, do not pose with your head down. A glance from under your brows almost always turns out to be frightening and ugly. All the beauty of your face will be lost if you lift your head up too much. Look straight ahead, turning your head slightly to the side.

But all these rules do not apply if you want to make a spectacular emotional portrait. In order for such a photo to turn out beautiful, you need to practice in front of a mirror. See which emotion you have is the most beautiful and looks advantageous from the outside.

It’s a disaster for any girl when she doesn’t turn out well in a photo. After all, you need to post your photos on social networks, where they will be viewed by thousands of people you know and more. If you ask yourself the question: why don’t I look good in photographs, then you need to take a closer look at yourself and analyze your photos. So what to do? Some tips:

• More practice. Even if you practice in front of the mirror before the photo shoot, how to stand and what pose to take, everything will turn out differently in the photo. It’s better to take more photographs and then compare the pictures and draw conclusions.
• Remove the tension. There is no need to specifically strain yourself before taking photographs, making your eyes larger or strenuously straightening your back. Relax, create a unique mood. Experienced models have this technique: you need to turn away, think about something pleasant, and then turn sharply and freeze for a second. The result will be a very lively and beautiful shot.
• Comfort is important. If you have a headache or are upset because of torn tights, then no matter how hard you try to create the right emotion, nothing will work. The photo will still reveal all your true emotions. Prepare in advance for the photo shoot so that everything is perfect.
• Blink in a timely manner. Try blinking just before the click. In this case, the eyes will not be half-closed, but will shine with their beauty.
• Correct makeup. Every girl has her own chosen ideal makeup. But for a photo it should be a little brighter than on an ordinary day. But don’t overdo it with pearlescent shadows and facial contouring, otherwise these lines will appear in the photo in the form of bruises or strange shines.
• Should I delete the photo or not? Psychologists advise removing or tearing up those pictures that you don’t like. Why keep footage that doesn't make you happy? But perhaps in 5-10 years you will no longer be so critical of your appearance. Therefore, whether to remove such photos or not is up to you.
• A passport photo can be beautiful too. Think about something pleasant, smile a little. But the main thing here is to think in advance what you will imagine in your head, otherwise instead of a sweet smile you will end up with an incomprehensible panic.

If you follow these tips, you can turn out beautiful and interesting photos. Try them in practice, and your photos will definitely delight you.

Photography has the power to capture a specific moment in our lives. That's why we really want the photo to be perfect. Both the figure and the face should look beautiful in the photo, which means you need to take the right pose. What's the best way to stand for a beautiful photo? Adviсe:

Nothing should overshadow your beautiful face in the photo, and a slightly bent finger is out of place here. If you don't know where to put your hand, place it against your face, lightly touching it.

There is no need to stand in a pose with straight legs, as if standing at attention. Relax, make a slightly curved line with your figure, but don't overdo it.

A pose that will help you look slimmer is turning your body 3/4 away from the camera. And this applies to any position: sitting, standing.

Again, straight shoulders and a level gaze are all unattractive for photography. Drop your shoulders a little and make a playful look.

With a bent knee, the woman in the photo will look much prettier than standing straight, like a soldier. Add a smile and success is guaranteed!

You don't need to look directly into the lens. You are not taking photos for your passport. Tilt your shoulders slightly, turn your head to the side and smile.

A natural smile is half the success of a good photo. How to smile correctly in a photograph? Some tips:

• Smile with your eyes. This technique needs to be practiced in front of a mirror. The face should be sweet and the look gentle.
• Don't put on a smile or show all your teeth. The photograph will show all the flaws, and if you tried to fake a smile, it will be visible. A smile with all 32 teeth will also turn out ugly.
• Find your best angle. This needs to be done in front of a mirror: look at yourself from one side and the other. How will your face look better and your smile more beautiful - on the right or on the left? You can stand slightly under the camera so that you are filmed from above and not from below.
• Keep your head straight, do not tilt or lift it up. Get into a pose as if you want to start talking to the camera.
• Words ending in “a” will help you smile beautifully. Many photographers force you to say “cheese,” but it doesn’t always work. Think about something pleasant and say a word ending in “a”.
• Whiten your teeth and maintain good oral hygiene. No smile will be beautiful if you have ugly teeth. They should be clean and perfectly white.
• Bright lipstick will help highlight the whiteness of your teeth. Avoid orange shades. They will make your smile dull.

The last point is moisturized lips. If you prefer matte lipstick, it will not highlight your smile. Apply colorless glitter on top and your smile will sparkle with new colors.

If a beautiful smile can be rehearsed or created with the help of teeth whitening and original lip makeup, then with facial expression everything is much more complicated. No matter how playfully you smile for a photo, your eyes and general facial expression can ruin everything. What kind of facial expression should you make for a photograph to make it beautiful? Some tips:

• Special look- look just above the lens. The eyes will appear more expressive. You can direct your gaze through the camera, then the look will be deep. Professional models have this technique: you need to look away to the side or to the floor, and at the photographer’s command, lift them up and look into the camera.
• Smile- it is not necessary for a good photo. Any facial expression is important: serious, playful, neutral, cheerful.
• Facial features and nose— being photographed clearly in profile or full face is not suitable for everyone. But everyone suits the classic 3/4 head turn.
• Don't be afraid to show your sexuality on camera. This is especially suitable for creating interesting photos for young girls.

Relax and use your imagination. Many people do well in photographs because they can relax in front of the camera. If it helps, talk to her like you would a friend. Models are not afraid of the camera, so they take great photos.

It is more difficult for a man to relax in front of a camera than for a woman. You don't need to strain all your muscles to look brutal. You need to be confident and let go of tension. How to pose for a photograph so that a guy or a man looks successful, beautiful and natural? Multiple body positions:

Cross your arms and lean against a vertical surface. This pose is suitable for portraits and full-length photos.

The asymmetry in the body line adds mystery to the image. You can also, as in the first option, cross your arms over your chest or put them in your pockets. The legs are slightly bent with the body weight transferred to one of them.

A photo in the workplace is original and not at all trivial. You should not take provocative photos with your legs thrown up on the table. Sit in front of your laptop or stand near your desk with your arms and legs crossed.

A dominant pose looks impressive in a photo of a man. Sit in a chair, relax and cross one leg over the other.

Photo on the ground. For such a photo there must be a beautiful background. One hand supports the head, the second serves for support. Legs are bent at the knees.

Close-up portrait. This pose is suitable if you have beautiful facial features. Fashionable stubble adds brutality, and a slightly sideways glance adds mystery.

Thanks to these tips, you will find several of your own successful angles that will help you look one hundred percent in your photo.

Female nature always strives outward, especially if the girl is the center of attention. This applies to photography. If you think through the poses for a photo shoot, you will definitely get beautiful photos. How to pose for a photograph so that a girl looks successful, beautiful and natural? Some poses:

• Model stand. Relax, bend one leg and support the other. The torso looks like you want to take a step.
• Stand with your torso slightly tilted to the side and cross your legs. Place your hands on your waist or in your pockets.
• Playful pose with raised bent leg. Hands on hips, face smiling. The body is slightly tilted forward.
• Lean on the vertical one leg is bent, the second lies on the chest.
• Stand half-turned, turn your head towards the camera. One hand on the waist, the other near the head.
• Dancer pose. Legs are free and spread apart. The line of the body is slightly curved, one hand is near the head, the second is on the waist.
• Two girls can be photographed differently. Standing next to each other, opposite each other, to be a single whole or separate individuals. The photographer will tell you how best to stand to look advantageous for both you and your friend.
• The “Broken Line” pose looks unusual, but original. Lean back slightly, legs bent. They seemed frozen in their step, hands free, looking at the camera. It should feel as if all your body parts exist separately from each other.

For many girls, their big nose is a tragedy. Moreover, many also exaggerate their disadvantage, this turns into a real complex for life. But there is no need to develop complexes and refuse to take photos. What's the best way to take pictures if you have a big nose? Adviсe:

• Correct the lines of your nose with makeup. Apply foundation: dark on the wings and sides of the nose, light on the top. Blend the transition from tone to tone.
• Take pictures not in profile, but from the front.
• Smile and don't squint your eyes so that all parts of the face complement each other.

You can also let your hair down and make curls. Hair pulled back into a ponytail will highlight large facial features.

To make your photo look more beautiful and slimmer, you need to follow a few tips. Believe in yourself and your uniqueness, and all your photos will radiate light, tenderness and beauty. How to look thin in photographs? Adviсe:

• Dress for the occasion. For a photo shoot, give preference to your favorite things. Clothes should complement your figure. Use monochromatic outfits - dresses, suits. If you want to wear a tight dress, then choose shapewear under it.
• Taboo in the photo from the bottom position. This angle is not the best, as it weighs down the image and makes it bulky and even ridiculous.
• Hand under chin. This will help hide your double chin.
• Body away from camera. A position that will make your figure more slender: put your foot forward, your toes pointing towards the camera, and shift your weight to your back leg.
• Hands on your hips or to your sides. In photos of celebrities you can see that they like to be photographed with their hands on their hips or waist. This position visually elongates the figure. You can also place your arms at your sides, moving them slightly to the sides.
• The perfect hairstyle will decorate your face, and therefore your photo.
• Turn away from the sun. Bright light will make you squint. This will add unsightly folds.
• Sit nicely. Cross your legs to make them appear slimmer. Straighten your back and pull your stomach in slightly.
• In a group photo, try to stand at the edge, as the camera in the middle adds extra pounds.
• Distance is important. What is close to the camera appears much larger than what is further away from it.

Don’t wear a lot of jewelry, don’t shout “Cheese!”, have a good posture and use the right lighting - success in the photo is guaranteed! A contrasting background should also be selected. The shade of the clothes and the background should not be the same, otherwise you will merge. Be relaxed, in a good mood and with a positive attitude. Happy photography!

Video: How to smile correctly in a photograph?

Just recently, about ten years ago, no one really thought about the question: “”. If you wanted to capture your person, you could always go to a specialized photo salon and there, entrusting the perpetuation of your person to a professional, experienced photographer, take high-quality, professional photographs. As a rule, masters of their craft themselves tell their models where to look, how to stand, and how to fold or remove their hands most effectively. Of course, the model itself should not have any special knowledge.

But today, when the situation has changed radically and serious, professional and very expensive photographic equipment has become available to almost everyone, there is no longer any need to look for a photo studio to take a beautiful photograph. The Internet, having become accessible to everyone, now contains any knowledge in any subject, including the art of photography. In addition, all kinds of social networks, having become a truly huge photo album, constantly encourage us to create new photo masterpieces.

In this article we tried to give as much advice as possible to those who want to learn how to take photographs correctly, go for it and everything will work out!

How to take photos correctly: photogenic lessons

Smile beautifully!

“A smile makes a gloomy day brighter” - don’t forget this, smile more often! In photographs, smiling people look much more attractive than frowning ones. But how to smile correctly?

• Practice in front of a mirror, it's better when no one sees. Draw different smiles - soft, thoughtful, cheerful, flirty... Remember the one you like the most and try to reproduce it at the moment when you are being photographed.
• Looking into the lens, imagine that in front of you is a very good person you know. Smile at him warmly and openly, such a smile will look very attractive!
• Try to remember something funny or cheerful, this way your smile will look more natural, because not only your lips, but also your eyes will laugh. Nothing decorates more than a sparkle in the eyes!
• Practice making funny faces in front of the mirror. If you appear in a photo with a mischievous face, such a photo will look much better than if you took on a respectable appearance.

Selecting clothes for photography

When you decide to take a photo, choose your best clothes. There are several small rules on what clothes are best to take photographs in: remember the old truth that clothes should fulfill their main artistic function - to emphasize advantages and hide flaws. Surely each of you knows what suits him and what doesn’t, let’s recall the main points:

• for photography you will have to give up baggy clothes; it is better to choose one that can favorably emphasize your figure - loose-fitting;
• if you have full arms, exclude short sleeves and, even more so, sleeveless clothes;
• high heels can visually make your silhouette slimmer and your legs longer (with the exception of a very full figure);
• avoid excessive amounts of jewelry, and if you are taking a photo for a dating site, avoid them altogether;
• in clothes with buttons in two rows, the figure will appear more massive;
• a small pattern on clothes is better than a large one, and a plain fabric is better than a variegated one;
• Clothes in dark blue and beige look very good in photographs;
• try not to be photographed wearing light-colored clothes, they can make you look too fat (with the exception of older people, for whom dark clothes can make them look extra old);
• Blouses, sweaters and turtlenecks that completely hide the neck are excluded; also avoid jewelry and scarves that can visually separate the head from the body;
• Always be mindful of your age and don't dress like you're in your twenties if you're forty, even if you look thirty!

Hairstyle in the photo

Here are some tips on how to make the hairstyle in your photo the most attractive:

• Wet wavy or curly hair and let it dry without a hairdryer, shaking the wet strands periodically to prevent them from sticking together too much. This hairstyle looks very natural!
• if you are the lucky owner of long hair, take pictures with your hair down, don’t hide your treasure;
• Do not over-smooth your hair; it may not be visible at all in the photo, and your head will turn out bald;
• do not backcomb your hair if you are going to take a close-up photo - the backcombing may be visible, and it can also visually increase the overall size of the head;
• Comb even and straight hair and spray a little hairspray to add shine;
• Avoid complex and intricate hairstyles, otherwise all attention will be focused on the hairstyle, and not on you (exception if you are a model and demonstrate some kind of hairstyle or styling).

How to do makeup correctly to look better in photos

The best option is to use the services of a professional makeup artist. If you need a high-quality, artistic photograph, then it is best to do so, however, if you are determined to take a photograph yourself or with the help of friends, our tips can help you with this.

Best Poses for Photos

Practice in front of a mirror, taking various poses - standing, sitting, profile and full face. Remember the most advantageous ones, they should hide the flaws of the figure and emphasize its attractiveness. Here are our tips for choosing the right photography pose:

• try several poses, imagining yourself as different people - a strict teacher, a femme fatale, a tough business woman, a romantic girl. Try to achieve relaxation in the movements and positions of your arms, legs and whole body. Remember - in the photo you need to look as natural and free as possible;
• the best photographs are taken half-turned: slightly turn one shoulder towards the photographer, and now if you turn your head a little in the same direction, you will get a photo with a proud look, in the other direction - with a thoughtful look;
• When taking full-length photographs, try not to stand straight, at attention, this pose looks tense and unnatural. It’s better if you transfer your body weight from one leg to the other, you can also put one leg forward a little;

• do not cross your arms over your chest, it is better to lower them freely, you can put your hands on your hips, this, by the way, will help hide excessive fullness;
• try to pull your shoulders back and straighten your back, thereby presenting your chest in the most advantageous light;
• If you decide to be photographed while sitting, you need to choose a pose that does not emphasize unnecessary folds at the waist or a protruding tummy. While shooting, inhale, pull in your stomach as much as possible, this will help you look more attractive;
• avoid clenching your hands into fists, and also do not point your arms or legs towards the photographer - this may distort the proportions;
• very attractive photographs are obtained if you raise your hands to your head, lightly touching your hair; the head is slightly turned to the side, you can look both at the photographer and past him. This photo is very suitable for young, romantic girls, giving them a flirty and playful look.

Correct lighting for a photo shoot

Follow the rule: there should be a lot of light! If the weather is cloudy, add artificial sources, just try not to let the light give unnatural shades to the skin.

Don’t take pictures in bright sunshine if you don’t want to get squinted, slitted eyes; try not to take pictures in sunny weather under foliage, which can cause shadow spots on your face.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you of a simple rule: a photograph is not a painting; it can reveal all the flaws in appearance and even enhance them. To prevent this from happening to you, follow our advice and see you on the web pages of your talented photo albums!

How to pose for a photo

How to pose correctly for a photo shoot is a question that I never asked myself until I was about forty. I didn’t take photos often, sometimes they turned out well, sometimes they turned out monstrously. But I managed to perceive successful photos as a gift of fate, and unsuccessful ones... I simply did not perceive them. And never think about it what am I doing wrong in these unfortunate photos.

Now that I run a fashion blog and take photographs a lot and often, I had to delve into the photography process much deeper. It turned out (that is, I theoretically knew this before, but only now felt it with all my skin) that lighting is critically important for a good photo. In the right light, the most ordinary woman can look like a fabulous nymph in a photograph. And bad light will even turn a beauty into Baba Yaga during the holidays.

Of course, the quality of the camera is also important, and even more important is the skill of the one who holds this camera in his hands. But! If you are standing in front of a brilliant photographer in the pose of a pregnant porcupine, the best thing he can do is lower the camera and not shoot.

First of all, the model should know how to make a photo successful

To build the body correctly, take a winning pose, “hide” the flaws of the figure and show the advantages - these tasks are solved on this side of the camera, not on the other. Professional models are taught this, but no one teaches us, mere mortals. But for us this is perhaps even more relevant, because we have something to hide, and for us not every pose will be winning.

Over the two years of filming for my blog, I have accumulated so many bumps that there is enough for everyone. I ruined hundreds of frames - it’s good that they are now digital, otherwise it would have been kilometers of wasted film. But now I know exactly how NOT to pose)))

It would seem that the Internet is full of materials on the topic “How to take a successful photo” and “How to pose correctly”

But there are nuances that are very important for an adult woman of significant merit, and which I did not come across in any of these articles; I had to figure them out myself. You will save a lot of time and nerves if you simply use my experience and remember ten simple rules for a successful photo. Believe me, the quality of your photos will change dramatically!

All photos below were taken under the same lighting, with the same camera settings, almost simultaneously. One photographer, one model, the same clothes. Often these are just two adjacent frames. And the result... Judge for yourself.

Rule No. 1. Half-turn pose

You automatically look a size smaller if you stand not facing the camera, but half-turned, with one hip slightly pulled back, and your chest and face turned towards the lens. Plus, if there is a hint of a tummy, then in a full-face pose, the directly incident light makes a molehill out of this. But half a turn - everything is not so critical.

If the light comes from the side, then turn the hip that is less illuminated slightly back. Then the thigh and stomach will seem to go into shadow and the whole silhouette will seem narrower.

Rule #2: When posing in profile, shift your weight back

Everyone recommends taking photos half-turned or almost in profile; this is one of the most popular photo poses. But no one says that the weight must necessarily be placed on the leg that is farthest from the camera. And the leg that is in front should be free, without weight.

If you lean on the leg in front, your thigh will seem two sizes larger and your butt will look enormous. Lean on the leg that is behind you and move your butt back - this will immediately make you at least a size smaller.

Rule No. 3. Don’t stick out the hip that is closest to the camera and the light.

As mentioned above, if you move one hip back to the “dark side”, the entire silhouette seems smaller. But if you put your weight on the thigh that is lit and closest to the camera, it automatically appears larger than it actually is.

The photographer who is photographing you can determine where the light is coming from. But you should always keep this in mind!

Rule No. 4. Get your butt back!!!

Always! Although on catwalks and in glossy magazines we see a fashion trend every year - walking and posing for photos with your belly stuck out forward. Even mannequins in store windows stand in this pose.

But models and mannequins, no matter how much they stick out, they simply have nothing to stick out, they don’t have bellies. But this pose is absolutely not suitable for a woman with curves!

Regardless of whether you pose full-face or half-turned, always try to straighten your chest as much as possible, straighten your back and move your butt back - it will pull your stomach back with it. And, of course, don’t forget about the abs 😉

Rule No. 5. Don't slouch!

In continuation of the previous point. Don’t slouch, straighten your shoulders - this is so obvious, without this you will never get a successful photo. But how often do we forget about this! Meanwhile, a hunched back and shoulders twisted forward are a guaranteed kill for a good shot. A hunched back not only makes you shorter, it also nullifies your neck, steals your waist, lowers your chest, automatically brings your stomach forward - in short, it does everything that you absolutely should not do!

When taking pictures, repeat to yourself all the time: “Straighten your back!” Straighten your back!” No matter how smooth it already is, there is no limit to perfection.

Rule No. 6. Don't hide your waist!

The waistline, the narrowest point of your body, must be visible in the photo. That's why models often place their hands on their hips, lift them up, or otherwise move them away from their torso. If you press your arms to your body, the sleeves visually merge with the torso - the lines of the body are dead, no one sees them.

Always make sure that there is at least a minimum gap between your waist and elbow.

Rule No. 8. Don't hide your neck!

Especially if your neck is not very long anyway. In an attempt to create a “relaxed”, “lively” pose, we often lower our head to our shoulder - and only memories remain from the neck.

Keep your head higher - a double chin will not appear in the photo, no matter what, and your neck will be longer.

Rule No. 9. Hands off!

Not quite, of course)) The insidiousness of the “half-turn” pose is that the forearm and hand are in the foreground, closer to the camera. And what is closer to the camera seems larger, this is a property of optics. Don't forget to move your arms back a little - this will make your arms and shoulders look more graceful.

Plus, by moving your arm back a little, you provide the necessary clearance between your waist and elbow.

Rule No. 9. Remove your bare hands even more so!

Everything that is said in paragraph 8 is even more relevant if you are photographed in the summer and with bare hands. Everything that is closer to the camera seems larger, and if it is something else that is light, it looks one and a half times wider. Bare hands can look like skinless sausages if you don't move them away from the camera.

Rule #10: Lift your chin

You can write a separate article and even a book about the rules for shooting portraits; there are a lot of nuances there. I will say only one general rule: all other things being equal, a head slightly raised up looks better than a head lowered down. As mentioned above, by lowering your head, you create a double chin, even if you don’t have one.

And here, too, the general principle works: what is closer to the camera appears larger. When you tilt your head forward, your forehead appears larger. When you tilt your head back a little, your lips appear larger 😉

You will say: can a living person remember all this the first time?

And I will answer you: of course not! But, if you systematically don’t like your photos, then maybe it’s time to do something about it? Today everyone has a phone with a camera in their pocket. Practice in front of a mirror, ask a friend to take a photo of you. Take a look at my cheat sheet, try different poses - and you will see what works for you.

With a little practice, you will learn to automatically take a good pose and begin to look at least as good in photos as you are. Or maybe a little better)) After all, photography is not only a technique, but also a little magic 😉

Let's learn how to pose correctly for a photo shoot!

The genre of modern fashion photography has long become a full-fledged art form. And like modern art, often the task of the photographer and model is to convey not only the image, but also the mood with the help of photography. A good photograph should have not only the present, but also the past and the future, it should be like a frame from a film where a whole story is visible. In the frame, the model must play a given role, leaving behind a piece of the moment from her life in the image. But for this, you need to learn pose correctly at a photo shoot and often you have to master this skill yourself. Of course, the photographer will always correct where it is critical, but you shouldn’t count on detailed instructions. In addition, the photographer will never be able to extract the necessary emotion or look from you. Not everyone wants to be a clown in front of you and constantly try to make you laugh or sad, because besides this, the photographer has other tasks. Let's talk about the most common rules when posing and the mistakes they make.

The first day of shooting for a model can sometimes be very difficult, especially if you don't know where to start. Therefore, it is very important to answer two questions for yourself: what to shoot, And How would this happen.

How to look beautiful in a photo

1. Subject of shooting

The concept of a photo shoot is developed in advance and can be of several types:

• magazine photo shoot: when it is necessary to create a single image from a series of photographs, the so-called editorial - magazine story;
• commercial photo shoot: the task of creating a selling image;
• social photo shoot: show a social problem and attract public attention to it.

It doesn’t matter what kind of photo shoot the model will be photographed in, the main thing is to convey the mood, idea and the message that the photographer and the entire team put into it. Of course, nowadays, every photo set is a commercial project, because we live in a world where everything is sold and everything is bought. Therefore, the task of the model, in one form or another, is to create a sellable image. In this task, the entire film crew must come to the aid of the model, whose professionals first think through makeup, hairstyle, clothes, style and mood, which in general has such a concept as mood board . Literally, the mood board translates as mood board, and is an integral attribute of any. On such a board are hung images (clippings from fashion magazines, city landscapes, photographs of paintings by famous artists, snapshots from shows, etc.) whose task is to create a certain atmosphere on the site.

Image, emotions, posing– all this must be performed by the model in a sequential chain, which is divided into preparation and the process itself. If a model tries to portray any pose without preparation, it will not work out organically. Therefore, you should initially stand in front of the mirror, feel the atmosphere, get used to the image of the upcoming photo shoot and tune in to a certain wave, which in turn will carry you in a given direction. This is especially important to consider when shooting where movement is required. You need to try to feel as much as possible that there is someone else inside you. It is in such cases that the element of acting plays a big role, thanks to which it is possible to portray completely different/unique images.

How to stand when taking portraits.

2. How the photo shoot will proceed

It is very important to discuss the upcoming work with the photographer before starting work. The most important thing to know is where the light is coming from and how the frame is cropped.

Lighting is perhaps one of the most important details in photography, because any incorrect shadows can significantly ruin the photo. If there is a main lighting fixture in the studio, you need to face it so that the light on your face is as soft as possible. If the light in the studio is symmetrical, then you should pose in the center. Accordingly, if the shooting takes place outdoors in sunlight, then you should position yourself so that the sun illuminates you evenly, unless the photographer commands otherwise.

Crop or cropping the frame, is an equally important moment of shooting, which the model must know about. The final perception of the photograph depends on whether the model is completely included in the frame. If the frame is cropped to the waist, you should ensure that your arms are raised at waist or chest level, again unless the photographer requests otherwise.

Cara Delevingne

Common mistakes when posing:

Elbows. Photography is, first of all, a two-dimensional space, so all poses with bent elbows or knees pointing into the frame are incorrect. You should not put your hands behind your head, as this will cut off your hands and give the impression that the model is an amputee. Try to work in the same plane as your body; don't push your elbows or knees forward or back unnecessarily. The correct pose would be one in which the hands are above the head and the fingers are visible, and the body is slightly turned into a semi-profile. The elbows should be spread to the side.

Neck and shoulders. If you are posing in profile, you should consider the correct curve of the shoulder and neck. The latter is a very important element when it is necessary to emphasize the femininity of a photograph. Therefore, do not close your chin or raise your shoulder under any circumstances. Therefore, when posing, the model's neck should always be open and slightly extended forward to avoid the formation of folds under the chin. In some photo shoots, when it is necessary to emphasize the mystery of the image, you should slightly raise the shoulder; in turn, an extremely lowered shoulder gives the image a sense of pride and confidence.

Face. There are three main positions when posing for portraits - full face, three-quarters and profile. Very often, beginning models make a common mistake by adopting a pose between three-quarters and a full profile, which has a name such as an interrupted profile, when a slightly protruding back of the face completes the line of the nose, lengthening it and making the silhouette unnatural.

Hands. Hands are very important in photography. You should never hide your fingers, as this will make you feel like they are simply not there. Therefore, if you need to take a pose in which you rest your hands on your sides, do it so that your hands and fingers are visible in the frame, to do this, do not put your hands behind your back or rest on your lower back. If your arms are lowered, also do not hide them behind your back, but try to position them as parallel to your legs as possible, but at the same time, not pressing them too tightly to your waist, leaving a little free space between your arms and torso. You should also not press your elbows to your body when you pose in half-profile with something in your hands. This also applies to the full profile position, as anything closer to the camera always looks bigger, so having your arms close to your sides will make you appear thicker.

Legs. Typically, when posing, the legs are either crossed or in a half-step position. This should be done in such a way that the front leg does not cover the back leg, merging with it into one. Therefore, make sure that your back leg is always visible. If you're standing straight with your feet together, shift your center of gravity to one leg and lower one hip and shoulder slightly. This will give your figure graceful lines so you don't look like a shapeless square.

Sudden movements. Don't move quickly when you're in the frame. When the lighting is set, the team is ready for the photo shoot and the photographer gives the command “ Started!”, do not make fast and sudden movements. Begin to move smoothly and slowly from one position to another, so that each pose is a logical continuation of the previous one, without changing the angle from the direction of the light.

Photography is much more sensitive than our eyes. It may seem that in order to change something in it, it is necessary to perform a series of complex movements or changes. But in fact, to achieve changes in a photograph, all it takes is the slightest movement of the arms, hips, legs, or a change of mood.

How to pose during a photo shoot: sitting, standing and posing for a portrait

Full length posing. There is no need to strain your body muscles and hold your hands clenched into a fist or place them one on top of the other. You should also not slouch, as this leads to deformation of posture and an unnatural result. You should bend one of your legs slightly, straighten your shoulders, take a natural pose, turn one shoulder towards the photographer and elegantly place one hand on your belt.

Denise Richards

Seated posing. In this case, you should not put your feet under you, do not turn your body forward to the camera, and do not clench your hands into fists. Turn your body three-quarters in relation to the camera, straighten your palms and slightly extend your legs to emphasize their aesthetics and beauty.

Caroline Carson Lowe

Portrait photo poses. Try not to strain your facial muscles and shoulder girdle as much as possible. You should not tighten the muscles of the neck and chin, as this leads to a violation of the proportions of the lower part of the face, which leads to an ugly and unnatural smile. In order to create more aesthetic proportions in the frame, a model with a wide face should turn and tilt her head slightly.

5 basic rules for posing correctly in front of the camera:

1. Correct view:

A gaze directed upward for no reason looks very unnatural, and if you don’t have the task of portraying prayer or make yourself little girl, then it’s better not to look up, that is, above the camera. You can also look at the camera in different ways. For example, you can look at the lens as if you are looking through it, far ahead. It is worth noting that in the frame this look looks very interesting; it seems that you are looking not at the viewer who is watching your photo, but through him. This technique is practiced by many models in order to learn how to strike poses correctly when photographing.

1. Correct head turn:

You should not look with your forehead, do it with your chin, that is, keep your face open in the direction indicated by the photographer and do not lower your head unless required by the specifics of the shooting. If you are posing in a semi-profile position, then you should turn your front temple towards the photographer, that is, slightly tilt your head forward, but under no circumstances tilt it back. You should also not lift your head too much, showing off your nostrils and a double chin, which in reality may not exist.

1. Use your palms correctly

Very often hands look good in a photo, but if they are not used correctly to touch your face, they can greatly ruin the photo. Frequent mistakes are when the action is performed in the literal sense, that is, if the task is set to take your head with both palms, you should not do this in the literal sense. Just lightly touch your head with your hands, imitating a touch. This also applies to actions with the neck, shoulders, chest girth and so on. By imitating the action, you add lightness to your movements, which looks much more gentle, beautiful and, most importantly, correct in the photograph.

You should not show off your palms with the front or back; they will look extremely large, ugly and not very feminine. You should turn your palms so that your hand looks more aesthetically pleasing, gentle and feminine.

1. Learn a special look

There are many examples when, in fact, there is nothing in the frame except a glance. There is no special pose, no outstanding beauty, but there is a look that holds the viewer and rivets his attention for a long time. How to achieve such a mesmerizing look? There are several rules. First, the model must have artistic skills, and if you want to learn something, you should practice a lot, including the look. You can start with the mirror, trying different emotions in front of it - anger, joy, sadness. Second, ask your loved ones to play some kind of game with you, where they will need to guess what you are depicting. You can start with something simple, the same sadness, sadness or joy. Then try to portray something more complex, for example, a loving look, disappointment or bewilderment. A professional model must be able to give the photographer the look he needs at any moment, in any mood. It can be joy, when in fact it is very sad, or a seal that you must create in yourself and show it in your gaze.

1. Don't be a copy of other models

Only someone who tries to be herself, and not a copy of her idols, can learn to pose correctly. Try to create your own and unique image. You should not emulate the looks of popular models and strive to become like their photographed copies; ultimately, no photographer, unless this is part of the photographic task, will want to repeat someone else’s photograph. Each photographer has his own vision of the composition and, in addition, each person is an individual personality. You can try to make the model Marilyn Monroe with the help of clothes, makeup and hair styling, but you won’t be in such a photograph. You should show your essence, your style, emotions and face in photographs.

Afterword:

Try to come to the shoot in a good mood, because this is actually the most important factor when observing correct posing at a photo shoot, which can significantly affect the result. Even when going for a paid shoot, it is very important to leave a good impression of yourself. Leave a positive aura around the photo set so that the photographer and the customer enjoy working with you, in which case you will definitely achieve the expected result, which will be the best reward for you!

Master class on posing from professional video models: